Homemade viv stack

Hi guys,

Here is my new vivarium stack, in order to be 'the perfect setup', what would you change (if anything)?

The top viv is destined for for small arboreal vipera, and the bottom viv will be for latrodectus species (when finished) Smile

External heating and lighting (eliminating the risk of arboreals getting tangled in wires/lighting etc)
Homemade viv stack Photo42

All branches are easily removable Cool

Stainless steel mesh top - high ventilation
Homemade viv stack Photo43

I value your opinions!

alien

It seems to me fairly well, is very practical for changing light bulbs. Some more thinner branches maybe and some Atheris species would be very nice Very Happy

If you will bought a few newborn arboreal vipers, be careful that they do not escape between the glasses Wink

Thank you Albert! This is definitely an adult setup - wouldn't want any babies squeezing out of the gap! Ive got some 'terra safe' strips that I use for keeping fruit flies in the dart frog viv, this would be ideal if breeding viviparous vipers cheers

Heres an example (it looks like a bead of silicone between the doors):

Homemade viv stack Photo16

I appreciate your feedback - some thinner branches and more greenery wouldn't go amiss! Smile

That vivarium is realy awesome.
Your dart frogs must really enjoy it.
This is very nice setup.

looking good!
enjoy it

Hi!
looks nice!
only one question!
in the lightning and timer compartment is there sufficient ventilation uppwards, otherwise it will be very hot and risk of fire!
reg
Mats

Thanks Mats, If you look towards the back of the 'lighting/heating' section, the back wall is cut out which should allow for a huge amount of ventilation - while keeping the animal(s) secure behind stainless steel mesh. The white wall behind the vivs makes this more difficult to see!

I am glad that nobody has noticed any glaring structural problems as of yet Laughing

Well the ceramic heater in the ceramic socket seems to be very close to the top board if that is wood you might get problems someday... it gets extremely hot from my 150w ceramic heater if I keep my hand above it!! I would not recomend the heater put like that.
reg
Mats

Thanks for your input Mats, However this is how i have used ceramics in every one of my vivariums for several years and have never had a problem. I always use a ceramic holder and 'dangle' it from a hook to allow for ventilation above the ceramic itself. It is not in contact with anything Smile

Would you suggest an improvement? Smile

Ok good luck, it will be around 50-70 degrees celsius ca 2-3 cm above the ceramic holder if you use a 150w lamp, I have had burnmarks on wood close to a ceramic heater. i m just sayin, then its up to you! Even if it works 99 times out of 100 I would not want to be in your shoes that 1 time. I think also if you read the warnings you should not have anything that could burn closer than a certain distance, below to the ground its like 60cm over i dont remember.
reg
Mats

Ah I understand - these ceramics are only 60W and when I measured the board above with an lazer thermometer it only reaches 82F (about 30 Celsius) Wink

I do appreciate your concern though!

Ahh ok 60w, will that be sufficant as spot heat as far down? or do you also have another heatsource like heat cables?
reg
Mats

A 60W ceramic is fine in this size of viv, the MDF and the coco fibre backing means the vivarium 'walls' are almost 30mm thick which has excellent heat retention. The ambient temperature of the room is 75F and the ceramic only needs to increase the 'hot' end of the viv by 10-15F depending upon the species. To be honest a 40W ceramic would do it but I put a 60W in each one just incase I do decide to get a species that needs it really hot. Wink

The design looks quite good structurally.

The only piece of advice I'd give you is that you might want to find a different building material for your walls in the future. It looks like you're using some sort of pressed wood fibre. I have found that setups like these then to retain moisture in the walls and joints and will collect mold over time. I am having that problem with some of the home-made enclosures I'm using right now.

I find that for home made enclosures, melamine coated wood with some extra coats of high quality waterproof bathroom paint works really well to keep the moisture out of the wood.

Nice job with the construction and I hope it works out well for you.

Thanks Luke - the MDF is sealed with yacht varnish before sticking on the coco fibre so there should be no problems with mould or water damage Smile

I find the coco fibre increases the surface area to spray onto and holds humidity well within the viv - as well as thickening the walls to provide good thermal stability.

Ive run these vivs for about a week now and they seem nice and stable, and im glad that nobody has found any massive problems with the rather unusual design. Time to get a few more sticks and plants and get some snakes in there! Razz

Glad things are going well so far.

I wouldn't be as concerned about mould in the actual structure of the enclosure as I would be about the mould in the coco husk fibre. You're right, it would hold the water and keep the humidity, but unless you keep it well ventilated you might have problems down the road. I have had similar issues with some do it yourself projects.

Do yo uhave anything like a computer fan to draw fresh air in through a screen?

Very beautiful !

Cheers Brian!

Luke - I have used coco fibre backgrounds in other setups, even once with dart frogs at 95% - 100% humidity! The coco fibres themselves dont rot and are held together with natural gum which also doesn't go mouldy. Ive had no problems in the past but I will update this thread if anything happens at a later date!

I dont have any fans set up as there is such a high surface area that is ventilated (just under 25% of each viv!) but its certainly a good idea for species that demand extremely high ventilation! Good idea - i may just steal that from you Wink